Kerala, known for its waterways and green terrain, offers a distinct cultural experience through its traditional toddy shops, locally called "Kallu Shaaps." These places are not just for drinks; they are centers where old customs, regional food, and community spirit come together, providing a direct look into Malayali life1.
At the core of this experience is "Kallu," the Malayalam word for toddy, a mildly alcoholic drink from the sap of palm trees, mainly coconut palms2. This milky, slightly fizzy drink changes in taste from sweet to more tart as the day progresses. Historically, toddy shops were often seen as places for men. However, many have adapted to become welcoming spots for families3. Shops like Mullapanthal Toddy Shop now function as full family restaurants, and Nettoor Shappu sees many couples4. This change makes toddy shops appealing to a broader range of visitors, including families, integrating this cultural element into Kerala's tourism offerings.
The Craft of Toddy Tapping: A Skillful Tradition
The journey of toddy, from tree to glass, highlights the skill and bravery of Kerala's toddy tappers, known as "Chethukaran." This old profession is a demanding craft passed down through generations, providing a living for many families5.
Toddy tapping begins with selecting a healthy, flowering coconut or palm tree, specifically those with strong flower buds. The tapper then climbs the approximately 70-foot tree quickly, often using minimal gear like a waist-tied rope or coconut husks as a makeshift ladder. Some tappers even tie ropes between trees, walking across them to reach up to 30 trees without descending — a time-saving and risky method6.
At the treetop, the tapper prepares the unopened flower buds, or spathe. A small cut is made, leaving most of the bud intact. The cut bud is then repeatedly beaten, traditionally with a hammer or a deer femur bone, to swell the bud and encourage sap flow. After this, the prepared bud is tied with a tender coconut leaf or rope, and a paste from 'taali' leaf (or sometimes clay) is applied to the cut. This prevents infection and helps consistent sap oozing7. Finally, a mud pot, called 'paani,' is attached to collect the dripping sap. This collection happens twice daily, in the morning and evening. Some tappers also make a third climb in the afternoon to slow sap flow and allow the tree to recover. A single tree can yield 1 to 5 liters of sap. The work carries risks, not only from climbing but also from insects like Asian hornets drawn to the sweet sap8.
Toddy exists in two main forms: fresh and fermented. Fresh sap, called "Elam," is sweet, warm, and has little alcohol. This non-alcoholic version is filtered, chilled, and processed into a soft drink named Neera9. However, once collected, the 'Elam Kallu' ferments quickly due to natural yeasts. In about two hours, it becomes toddy, gaining a sweet, slightly sharp taste and typically around 4% alcohol. Longer fermentation increases alcohol content, potentially up to 8% by the third day. Beyond this, acetic fermentation starts, making the toddy sour like vinegar. Freshly fermented toddy is milky white, unlike clear 'Neera'. This quick fermentation and short shelf life mean toddy cannot be mass-produced or transported easily10. This requires local consumption, adding to the authentic feel of toddy shops, which are often in rural areas near palm groves, receiving toddy directly from the trees. This direct link ensures a fresh and genuine experience, a key draw for those seeking cultural immersion11.
A Culinary Experience: Dishes of Kerala's Toddy Shops
Toddy shops in Kerala are celebrated not just for their traditional palm liquor but also for their bold, spicy, and deeply flavorful cuisine. The food is expertly crafted to complement toddy, enhancing the overall experience and reflecting Kerala’s rich culinary identity12.
Cooking in toddy shops involves freshly ground spices and hyper-local ingredients, especially seafood. The high spice levels serve both flavor and function — stimulating the palate and encouraging more sips of toddy, which in turn cools the mouth13. This age-old pairing highlights the intuitive food wisdom of Kerala’s traditional chefs.
Seafood dishes are central. The signature Kallu Shaap Meen Curry (toddy shop fish curry) is a medium-thick, spicy red gravy prepared with fresh catches like Kingfish, Pearl Spot (Karimeen), Snakehead (Varal), Catfish (Kaari), or Trout (Koori). Simmered repeatedly for intensity, its deep red hue comes from chili and Gambooge (kudampuli)14. Karimeen Pollichathu, a marinated and banana leaf-wrapped fish delicacy, Njandu Roast (crab roast), Chemmeen (prawns), and stuffed or fried mussels called Kallummakaya are other crowd favorites. Bolder palates might opt for Meen Thala Kari, a spicy fish head curry considered a local delicacy15.
Meat lovers will find plenty to savor. Duck Roast (Tharav Roast) is often cooked in a rich coconut-based gravy (Mappas). Rabbit Roast is a rare specialty available in popular shops like Nettoor and Mapranam Shappu. Pork Roast and Beef Fry serve as classic accompaniments to toddy. Other unique dishes include Quail Fry (Kada Fry), Squid (Koonthal), Turkey preparations, and even regional curiosities like Turtle Roast and Frog Leg Fry, found at niche locations such as Mullapanthal16.
These intense flavors are balanced by traditional accompaniments. Kappa Vevichathu (mashed tapioca) is the most iconic, gently seasoned with mustard, curry leaves, and shallots. Appam or Kallappam — often leavened with toddy — and soft Porotta make perfect partners to soak up the thick gravies17.
Essential Dishes and Pairings at Toddy Shops
Dish: Kallu Shaap Meen Curry Main Ingredient: Various Fish (Kingfish, Pearl Spot, etc.) Key Characteristics: Spicy red gravy, tangy with Gambooge Common Pairing: Kappa Vevichathu, Rice, Appam
Dish: Karimeen Pollichathu Main Ingredient: Pearl Spot Fish Key Characteristics: Marinated, fried, then steamed in banana leaf Common Pairing: Toddy
Dish: Njandu Roast Main Ingredient: Crab Key Characteristics: Dry roast or thick spicy gravy Common Pairing: Toddy, Kappa
Dish: Meen Thala Kari Main Ingredient: Fish Head Key Characteristics: Rich and robust curry Common Pairing: Kappa Vevichathu, Rice
Dish: Kappa Vevichathu Main Ingredient: Tapioca (Cassava) Key Characteristics: Mashed, seasoned with shallots and curry leaves Common Pairing: Fish Curry, especially Meen Curry
Dish: Duck Roast (Tharav Roast) Main Ingredient: Duck Key Characteristics: Spicy, sometimes cooked in coconut milk (Mappas) Common Pairing: Toddy, Appam, Porotta
Dish: Rabbit Roast Main Ingredient: Rabbit Key Characteristics: Rare delicacy, slow-cooked with spices Common Pairing: Toddy
Dish: Kallummakaya Main Ingredient: Mussels Key Characteristics: Stuffed or fried, spicy Common Pairing: Toddy
Dish: Chemmeen Main Ingredient: Prawns Key Characteristics: Fried or curried, intensely spiced Common Pairing: Toddy, Kappa
Dish: Pork Fry/Roast Main Ingredient: Pork Key Characteristics: Spicy, ideal as a snack Common Pairing: Toddy
Famous Toddy Shops of Kerala: Tradition, Taste, and Tourism
The toddy shops of Kerala have evolved far beyond their humble origins as palm-wine sheds. Today, many of them are culinary landmarks that embody the region’s gastronomic heritage and social transformation. Tourists and families alike now seek these places for their authentic dishes, scenic ambience, and cultural warmth. From Kannur’s temple-town eateries to Alleppey’s backwater shacks, toddy shops tell a story of local life, craftsmanship, and community.
Located close to the revered Parassinikkadavu Muthappan Temple, this toddy shop offers visitors an immersive cultural experience1. Pilgrims often stop here after temple visits to enjoy authentic Malabar flavours—crab roast, duck curry, and spicy beef fry. Its riverbank setting and traditional thatched décor make it one of Kannur’s most atmospheric dining spots, where the toddy flows in harmony with temple chants and local hospitality.
2. Toddy Shop (Opposite Vismaya Park, Parassinikkadavu)
Set opposite Vismaya Water Park in Kolmotta, this shop is a favourite among temple visitors and families2. Clean interiors, courteous service, and freshly tapped toddy accompany classics like meen curry and kappa (tapioca). The proximity to both a family theme park and a heritage temple makes it a convenient and enjoyable stop for travellers exploring Parassinikadavu.
3. Kaali Toddy Shop (Thalassery, Kannur)
Kaali Toddy Shop embodies the charm of traditional Thalassery—Kerala’s culinary capital3. Known for its fiery curries, it serves dishes like kozhi varattiyathu, meen pollichathu, and beef ularthiyathu. Its unpretentious atmosphere and loyal local crowd make it a true reflection of Malabar’s toddy culture.
4. Mambaram Toddy Shop (Pinarayi, Kannur)
A hub for locals, Mambaram Toddy Shop is appreciated for its traditional recipes and consistency4. Visitors can enjoy regional favourites such as chemmeen curry (prawn curry), karimeen fry, and duck roast in a homely setting that reflects the community-centered spirit of North Kerala.
5. Purakkattiry A.C. Toddy Shop (Kozhikode)
Bringing refinement to the shaappu experience, this Kozhikode gem features air-conditioned interiors and impeccable hygiene—without sacrificing authenticity5. Must-tries include njandu roast (crab roast), thalassery fish curry, and pork fry.
6. Toddy Shop (Malaparamba, Kozhikode)
A favourite among Kozhikode locals, this shop is noted for its friendly staff and welcoming atmosphere6. It’s a perfect stop for families or first-timers who wish to sample traditional toddy dishes in a neat and well-maintained setting.
Another celebrated name in Kozhikode’s toddy circuit, this shop enjoys a strong local following7. The menu features signature Kerala curries, including pothu roast (buffalo meat), meen curry, and kappa-toddy combinations that make it a comforting, everyday dining space for the region’s toddy lovers.
Central Kerala: Kochi and Ernakulam
8. Kadamakudy Kallu Shop (Ernakulam)
Situated beside the serene Kadamakudy lake, this toddy shop offers an unbeatable view and a relaxed coastal vibe8. The menu includes njandu roast, chicken curry, and karimeen pollichathu, all paired beautifully with freshly tapped toddy.
9. Mullapanthal Toddy Shop (Udayamperoor, Kochi)
One of Kerala’s most famous toddy shops, Mullapanthal has become synonymous with family-friendly dining9. Must-try items include karimeen pollichathu, turtle roast, and crab masala—a spread that captures the soul of coastal Kerala cuisine.
10. Nettoor Shappu (Maradu, Ernakulam)
A lakefront establishment known for its authentic flavors, Nettoor Shappu blends the charm of traditional toddy culture with scenic beauty10. The Fish Head Curry and Rabbit Roast are standout dishes, often enjoyed while watching fishing boats glide across the waters.
11. Boche Toddy Pub (Vypin, Kochi)
A modern interpretation of the toddy experience, Boche Toddy Pub combines Kerala-style seafood with a trendy seaside ambience11. It’s one of the few spots where traditional cuisine meets contemporary presentation—perfect for young travellers and food explorers.
12. Padipura Toddy Shop (Udayamperoor, Ernakulam)
Known for its Kottayam-style “naadan” flavours, Padipura serves rich dishes such as pork fry and buff roast12.
13. Kudapuram Toddy Shop (Eramallor, Ernakulam)
Nestled by the backwaters, Kudapuram offers waterside seating where visitors can relish fish head curry, crab roast, and pork fry13.
Mapranam Shappu is legendary for its weekend feast of up to 26 dishes—from quail fry and mussels to turkey curry and rabbit roast14. Its long-standing reputation has made it a culinary landmark.
South Kerala: Alleppey and Kottayam
15. Attumukham Toddy Shop (Kainakary, Alappuzha)
Nestled in the backwaters of Kainakary, Attumukham Toddy Shop is reachable by both road and boat—making it a rare gem15. Its family-friendly huts overlook vast paddy fields, offering a tranquil dining experience.
16. Rajapuram Toddy Shop (Alleppey)
Set along the canals of Alappuzha, Rajapuram Toddy Shop offers a houseboat-style ambience with a menu rich in freshwater fish and traditional meats16.
17. Kilikkoodu Toddy Shop (Kumarakom, Kottayam)
Overlooking the famed bird sanctuary, Kilikkoodu is popular for its serene setting and exceptional seafood17.
Across Kerala, these toddy shops form a bridge between tradition and tourism. They preserve the state’s culinary essence while embracing modern hospitality standards. Whether overlooking a temple, a river, or a stretch of paddy field, each toddy shop offers a slice of Kerala’s cultural rhythm—where food, drink, and nature converge in harmony.
The Toddy Shop Experience: A Visitor’s Guide
Visiting a toddy shop is more than a meal—it's an immersion into Kerala’s grassroots food culture. Here’s what to expect and how to enhance your experience.
Ambiance & Atmosphere: While many toddy shops retain a basic, traditional setup with plastic chairs and dim lighting, others have evolved to include garden settings, houseboats, and lakeside views. Whether rustic or refined, they foster community and local storytelling.
Access & Getting There: Toddy shops are mostly located in rural areas, sometimes accessible only by boat, such as in Alleppey. Use auto-rickshaws, private cabs, or tour packages to reach them.
Best Time to Visit: Visit around lunch for the freshest food and toddy. Mornings offer the freshest toddy, tapped straight from the palm. October to February is ideal for weather and outdoor settings.
Etiquette & Tips: Embrace the local flavors—many dishes are spicy. Use fingers to eat, and expect no-frills service. Basic Malayalam food terms can help. Though increasingly family-friendly, women travelers may prefer designated rooms.
New Excise Policy: The Kerala government now supports modernizing toddy shops by improving hygiene, access, and comfort—especially for tourists. Policies allow toddy parlors in hotels and offer more freedom during events, marking a new era for toddy tourism.
Conclusion: Experiencing the Heart of Kerala
Kallu Shaaps are deeply rooted in Kerala’s food and cultural identity. From watching toddy tapping to tasting fiery seafood curries, each visit offers raw authenticity. The push towards modernizing these spaces—without losing their charm—ensures that toddy shops remain a living part of Kerala’s culinary tourism.
By embracing these humble spots and supporting government-backed reforms, travelers become part of a sustainable model that blends tradition and tourism, encouraging both cultural appreciation and local economic growth.
